1/100 MG Sengoku Astray

Sengoku Astray is a nice, but not perfect kit. It’s my first Gundam Build Fighters kit, and it’s different enough with the emphasis on the special add-ons and design features to make it quite an interesting build.TGN_9174 The green metallic stickers behind the clear lenses stand out nicely and don’t look too garish against the red/white colour scheme. I like how the gold details I added got picked up by the gold on the swords. I like how the silver on the red worked for the front vents as gold would have got lost in that location.TGN_9176 But this is one kit that looks best from behind, with the lovely devil mask shield and the wonderful detail on the back of the legs, arms and shoulders.TGN_9177 The details of the shield made it easy to paint and look good.TGN_9178 TGN_9179 The stickers are similar to what you get on a RG, and go on pretty easily and are not too bad for showing edges.TGN_9181 TGN_9182 TGN_9183 I do like the swords, but of all the pieces on the kit they gave me the most bother because I lost one of the pieces! Eventually I managed to use some Milliput to make a cast of the missing piece from the remaining copy (good job there’s two swords on the kit of I’d have been out of luck). You can’t easily tell which is which – original or copy, so I’m reasonably happy with the outcome.TGN_9184 The detail on the backs of the arms is great.TGN_9185 TGN_9187 TGN_9188 I think this the handle I cast from Milliput. Hard to tell eh?TGN_9189 TGN_9190And I took some more pictures in a different pose:TGN_9192 TGN_9194 TGN_9197TGN_9198

9 thoughts on “1/100 MG Sengoku Astray”

  1. Red parts: Tamiya gunmetal, followed by Tamiya clear red
    White parts: Alclad grey undercoat, white paint is a mix of Createx white, Tamiya acrylic thinner and some Future Finish
    Grey parts: Alclad grey undercoat
    Black parts: Tamiya gunmetal, followed by Tamiya smoke

  2. I do prime, and I generally use Alclad grey primer. In some situations I don’t prime where I know from experience the paint will stick just fine to the plastic and where I don’t want to add extra thickness. For instance, for painting inner frames with Tamiya gunmetal paint (thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner) I don’t prime because that paint sticks really well, dries quickly, and keeping it thin (not adding extra paint layers) makes for better movement on joints and less paint scraping off.

  3. The small gold details were hand painted using the paint from a gold Gundam marker pen. I can’t remember which gold paint I used for the sword and other gold pieces, but I think it was Vallejo Liquid Gold (alcohol base) which I was testing at the time. Normally I use Alclad pale gold which is very good.

Leave a Reply