After doing the first half of the white armour pieces on the DM Strike kits, I realized that some of the techniques I used would make for a great set of tutorials.The starting point is to use Alclad grey primer on all the pieces. Not only is this going to ensure the rest of the paint sticks well to the piece (and thus not be pulled off by the masking tape), I’m using the grey primer as one of the colours on the pieces. These pieces go on the arms. My goal is to leave the edge trim grey, paint the rest white, but have the grille area in aluminum. Even the 5mm masking tape is too wide for the narrow trim, so I stuck some to my work area cutting mat and sliced them down to size. Lifting the tape off the mat with the scalpel, I carefully placed the tape on the sides of the trim. I did the sides first so that when I put the middle on, it would overlap and hold the sides in place better. Now with the middle on, all is good. Just press firmly and wrap the edge over to hold the tape on tight. The tape I trimmed is too thin to cover the top, but no worries. A bit of left over tape from earlier can just roughly cover the gap. Don’t be afraid to re-use masking tape like this. Now to airbrush on the aluminum. There’s four pieces that need it. Alclad aluminium in place, it’s time to let these pieces dry before the next layer of masking. Aluminium on these pieces too. While they dry lets do some more masking! For these small pieces the mask edge is a straight line so we can just cut tape and fold around. That left a gap though.So a recycled piece of tape finishes off the masking. I don’t tend to use recycled pieces for tricky masking or fine edges, but I find it works well to roughly fill gaps. Now to try and do that piece better – try a wider piece of masking tape. The 10mm tape works great.Wrap around the edges and you’re good to go! For this section we’re going to have to cut the tape while it’s on the part. First get the tape stuck firmly to the part covering the detail you want masked. Now trace the edge with your pencil. This will show you clearly where you have to cut and also ensure the tape is firmly stuck at the cut edge. Now you can cut along your lines and remove the excess. For this part I decided to use the same technique as above. But I soon realized that was wrong. Masking tape is cheap so don’t be afraid to start over if you see a better way. I changed my mind and used one long piece wrapping over so that I could mask the top edge better. Outline the detail with your pencil so you can see clearly where to cut. Make sure your scalpel or craft knife is really sharp for this kind of work. You don’t want to be hacking at the tape and thus distressing the plastic underneath. And don’t worry if the edge isn’t quite perfect. You can also cut some more tape to refine an edge as I did here. Now one of the pieces I removed from my first go can cover the back. These skirt sections are tricky. First I took the 5mm tape around the edge in sections. Then I marked up the panel lines with my pencil. Then you can see clearly where to cut with your knife. I added more strips along the back, pressed down into the crevice to ensure they stuck well. I really should have done this first so the sides would hold these pieces on better. A 10mm piece of tape fit nicely over the top. I used my side-cutters to trim off the excess before pressing the edges down. It’s worth checking around the edges to ensure no flaps have lifted or that you’ve inadvertently left some tape in place you shouldn’t have. Now the aluminium from before is nice and dry it can be masked. The technique here is simple – use the pieces of tape I cut for the same part on the other half of the kit. Don’t make life harder than it has to be! I saved the tape from these parts also.And here’s all the parts masked and ready to be sprayed with white paint.