MG Sazabi the 2nd

I’m sure the question you’re asking is “Why Sazabi? Didn’t you already do one?” Well the answer is that a friend asked me to build one for him, because he really liked how I did mine. And because he asked nicely, I’m doing a Sazabi for him, and I’m also doing it a little different to how I did mine.DSC05949 Starting with the yellow plastic pieces, they’re going to be gold, so that means a nice gloss black undercoat before the Alclad gold paint.DSC05950 DSC05951 And more gloss black for the chrome pieces.DSC05952 DSC05953 DSC05954 DSC05955 The Alclad chrome looks lovely. You’ve got to spray it on really gently though or it doesn’t shine up. That makes it tricky to get right, so I took it really carefully, and have had to add more chrome to many of the pieces as I was way too cautious!DSC05956 DSC05957 DSC05958 DSC05959 For the main frame pieces, I masked off the bits I wanted chrome, and sprayed the rest with Tamiya smoke. This makes for a lovely metallic effect, with nice chrome highlights.DSC05960 DSC05961 DSC05962 DSC05963 DSC05971 DSC05986 DSC05987 DSC05988 DSC05989 DSC05990 DSC05991 DSC05992 DSC05993And of course, lots more smoke hand-painted for the details. This really brings out the depth on the chromed pieces and gold details.

10 thoughts on “MG Sazabi the 2nd”

  1. What I’m thinking on the Hi-Nu ver Ka, is how to do the lovely gradations on the blue without using the water-slides. Obviously, an airbrush can do soft edges, but I don’t think that’s quite going to cut it for what I want visually. Sounds like I’ll have a challenge on my hands!!!

    1. I was thinking too how difficult the gradient on the funnels would be, but I’m glad that you’ve decided to do that with the painting 🙂 Speaking of which, do you plan to go on the blue close to the color guide or the purple like Izubuchi’s original artwork?

  2. I hadn’t thought too much on the colour yet….. Purple would be nice, so I’ll have to see what purple paints I have that will work well. I love the pearl blue I use, but obviously, that’s not purple!

    1. For me, either would be good, as long as the funnels get the gradient instead of a full color paint like the old MG. Unlike most die-hard fans, I do like how Katoki handled everything on this model, and I’m sure a purple color paint job will pop out eventually.

  3. Hi. If you spray the parts on the runners, when you remove them from the runners, won’t it be more work to respray the parts with the nub marks?

  4. Most of the yellow pieces are only visible on one side on the finished kit, or the nub marks are hidden by other pieces, so they can be safely sprayed on the runner.

    For rocket cones that are visible on both sides, I’ll spray the inside on the runner, pull the pieces off the runner and stick them upside down onto masking tape and spray the outsides. This works great when there’s no good space on the part for the alligator clip to hold on to.

    1. Yes, I generally clear coat with Future Finish after I’ve done the Alclad paints. The Alclad chrome does look better if you don’t clear coat it, but it doesn’t stand up to masking or even much touching if you don’t coat it. I find it best to let the Alclad paints thoroughly dry, and then go really light with the first coat of clear coat or else the Alclad sorta runs.

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