The next stage in the process is to add chipping and rust effects.For all the pieces, the procedure is pretty similar. First stage is to ensure you’ve got a good gloss coat in place, for which I used Future Finish. Then I took a small sponge and the cool-grey acrylic paint I’d used in mixing the blue shades, and sponged it on in appropriate places. If it didn’t look too good I wiped it off and tried again. In some places there’s just a light touch, and in others it went on heavier to make for an area effect. I didn’t do too much at a time, but kept going back and building up the effect. Once the acrylic was dry, I took out the Tamiya Weathering Master kits and used their silver to shine up some of the larger areas of the chipping.The next stage is to break out your artists oil paints. They come in a tube so I squeezed out a bit of Burnt Sienna into an old cleaned out Tamiya paint jar, added mineral spirits and dissolved the paint. Taking a short stiff brush I liberally dabbed the “rust” on over the areas of chipping. When wet it looks awful, but as it dries you see the variegation from your cool-grey and silver coming through. Then you can “tidy up” any areas that look too “painterly” (see the leg above where the rust looks painted on) with a stiff brush, spreading the oil paint over the blend it in, or use a cotton bud to remove it entirely to try again.
To build up some of the thicker areas of rust, you just add more oil paint, either a thicker liquid from the solids that accumulate at the bottom of the paint jar, or directly from the tube itself, applied carefully with a fine brush.
The beauty of using the oil paints is that this stage is relatively non-destructive. If you don’t like a bit, you can wipe it off, and if it’s too dry, some mineral spirits will gently bring the oil paint off, leaving your acrylic work below protected by the clear varnish.