Continuing on with the Graze, I used the burnt sienna oil paint on the axe and gun.I used the Uschi powder on the blade edge of the axe, and although it looks good it’s way too clean so I’ll add more oil paint later to give a look similar to the above, but not as clean on the edge. The gun looks great. I’ll add some Uschi powder to finish this piece.Back onto the frame you can see that I’ve added more and more rust. Given how exposed the frame is on this kit, I’m really happy I’ve rusted up the frame to this extent. I’ve let the initial rust patches guide the further layers of rust. I’ve added some very thin layers of more burnt sienna until the effect is all built up. I like how the cadmium orange pokes through. Based on how good it looks, I’m going to re-order how I do further rusting by going with the cadmium orange first (and highly thinned down as it’s such a strong colour) and darkening it down with the burnt sienna. I’ve continued the wash of burnt sienna over the torso and head. I followed the same oil paint effect on the arms, using repeated thin washes until I’d built up the effect to the desired level. The cadmium orange is poking through very strongly here, but after more layers of the burnt sienna, the result will be just what I want. With another wash of burnt sienna dry, it’s time for top coat. I put on a good layer of Future Finish… …followed by Alclad flat. Very rust. Very nice. Now that the frame is all painted, it’s time for the armour. Even a rough assembly looks great. This is an interesting mech design, and although it’s heavily armoured there are great sections where the frame pokes through. I didn’t forget to rust up the frame sections for these backpack parts. This time I went in with the cadmium orange first, and then followed with washes of burnt sienna. With the armour all built up, I can add some pre-weathering maintaining continuity across pieces. The pre-weathering done by thinning down some already thin Payne’s Grey airbrush paint with Tamiya acrylic thinner and using a small brush to dab onto the pieces. When they dry you get nice organic edges and a very interesting tone that varies over the splodge. Here are the splodges on the main torso and head of the kit. And splodges on the backpack pieces and hand. I painted the oils onto the hands just like the backpack pieces – cadmium orange first and then burnt sienna. Now the bit I don’t like – taking the armour off so that I can paint it. Fortunately I could feel that the pieces were not going to be too hard to remove while I assembled them. After the splodges I used a small piece of foam or the end or a stick to add some pre-chipping with the Payne’s Grey, but this time not thinned. I sorted the pieces by left-side and right-side so that I could keep the continuity of the splodges and chipping when I re-assemble after painting. This is especially important on the legs because I put more chipping on the outside edges and the legs are symmetrical so it would be easy to mix them up. I made up some thin green paint so that it would show through the pre-weathering. I started the paint mix with some Future Finish and added some Createx transparent green. That looks great, but I needed to add some grey so that it the paint would reduce contrast on the pre-weathering. Finally I added a drop of black just to darken it down and reduce the saturation of the green. Finally I thinned the result with some Tamiya acrylic thinner. The green paint went on very smoothly. It was easy to go back and add more paint where I thought I needed to “back-off” the pre-weathering. I also went very light in a couple of areas to make those parts look a little faded. In the kit there are a few armour pieces made of dark green plastic. For these, I quickly mixed up the Createx transparent green thinned with Future Finish and gave them a couple of light coats. The hue remains the same, but these pieces appear more saturated rather than darker. You can see the colour contrast on these feet pieces. The colour contrast is a little subtle, but quite nice. The modulation from the pre-weathering comes through really nicely. This will form my guide for the chipping and further oil paint layers of paint. A full assembly shows how nice this kit is going to be when complete.